War Pig

ComServ · **Posted:** Thu May 24, 2012 6:46 pm

This one started off as just for fun with the first time I'd ever used a Nade' Blank. I feel it came out pretty well but would still love to hear some critic. Let me know and thanks for any and all answers.

The War Pig!

Rust This World · **Posted:** Thu May 24, 2012 9:40 pm

Something that might help is for you to sand down or buff the sculpt once it's dry. It will remove the uneven edges and general "lumpy" look of the sculpted part.

It's a cool idea though, and I love a lot of the elements of the design.

ComServ · **Posted:** Thu May 24, 2012 9:46 pm

Exactly the type of thing I'm looking for I just recently started working with sculpy and have been hesitant to sand it down. Recently I've been trying some techniques to make it smoother what grit would you recommend. And what is a good clear coat to use? Haven't really found anything I like and I've ruined a few pieces using incorrect materials.

hypnotiq · **Posted:** Fri May 25, 2012 3:54 pm

Great design. I think the sculpt could be a bit more refined though.

Rust This World · **Posted:** Fri May 25, 2012 5:16 pm

ComServ wrote:

Recently I've been trying some techniques to make it smoother what grit would you recommend. And what is a good clear coat to use?.

I use 180 grit to sand it down and then use a buffing wheel on my dremel to smooth out my sculpts. You could also use those foam fingernail sander/buffers that they sell everywhere for like $1.

For a clear sealer, I just use Testors spray laquer. It comes in both dull and glossy.

ComServ · **Posted:** Fri May 25, 2012 8:58 pm

Nice thanks for all the info. Hopefully the next sculpt will be much more refined. We'll see how it goes just gotta keep experimenting each one gets a bit cleaner.

InfiniteRabbits · **Posted:** Sat May 26, 2012 8:08 am

I like it. Especially the facial expression. My only criticisms would be that the broken tusk looks a little unfinished at the broken end, where it looks like we can see where the clay was folded, and that I think a more "military" olive drab green would have looked more warlike, and really contrasted with the bright piggy flesh.

Rust This World wrote:

...and then use a buffing wheel on my dremel to smooth out my sculpts...

That's brilliant. Seems obvious but I never thought of it. Going to give it a try.

Rust This World wrote:

For a clear sealer, I just use Testors spray laquer. It comes in both dull and glossy.

I like Testors as the gloss is really glossy, and the matte is really matte. But I also use [url="http://www.krylon.com/products/uvresistant_clear"]Krylon UV Resistant Clear[/url] (matte) for most things. I figure the UV protection can't hurt, and the finish is pretty good. If I want a very flat finish, I hit it with the Testors after that.

For giving just certain areas a high gloss finish after the spray matte, you can brush on some thinned gloss acrylic medium or Future floor finish (which is essentially the same thing, just clear gloss acrylic.) I think Future is now being labeled as Pledge, but it still says Future somewhere on the label.

ComServ · **Posted:** Sat May 26, 2012 3:07 pm

Thanks Infinite I appreciate that. Yeah I feel I could've done more with the tusk and defined it better I plan on using some of the sanding techniques to improve on those type of design aspects. Feeling ya on the olive drab as well I really wanted to go as military as possible with it on the color I think I just rushed it and didn't stick with my original plan and it started to become more of a cartoon or caricature instead of the warlike ideal I was planning on.

schultzy · **Posted:** Sat May 26, 2012 11:46 pm

For clear coats, I use liquitex liquid varnish that I apply using an airbrush. I also do a think coat between paint layers.

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